Popovers with Cheddar and Thyme

BY CASSANDRA HAMMERSTONE

March 2024

My popover addiction began at my favorite New York City steakhouse. Delivered to the table warm and crispy, I’d slather them in butter and pink Himalayan salt and almost forget about the ribeye being fired in the kitchen. Maybe that’s because there’s something nostalgic about popovers that reminds me of very special Sunday family dinners and holidays when Yorkshire Pudding would arrive at the table, risen to impossible heights, hot and sizzling.

Popovers and Yorkshire Pudding are closely related: They’re the same egg batter, just prepared differently. The first is baked in a muffin-style tin that bears its name, and the latter is baked in a large open oven dish slathered in beef drippings.

I think you’ll be surprised that popovers are remarkably simple to make, and there are plenty of ways to make them ahead or get a head start. Which makes them the perfect accompaniment for a holiday Prime Rib, roast beef or steak dinner, especially when you dress them up with cheddar cheese and fresh thyme.

Place the popover tin in the middle rack of the oven while the oven preheats to 350°. The popovers will get a much better rise and a delightfully crispy edge when the batter is poured into a hot mold.

Add the milk, salt and thyme into a small saucepan and set it over low heat. The flavor of the thyme will infuse into the milk as it warms. You’re aiming for the milk to be warm but not hot or simmering – it should still feel comfortable to the touch. Let it steep for about 10 minutes. Fresh thyme is best for this recipe, but you could use dried if that’s what you have. Just cut the amount of thyme by half.

We’re warming the milk because we want to keep the batter at or slightly above room temperature at all times.

Whisk the eggs until they are light and frothy. Just when you think you’ve whisked them enough, give them a couple more turns. Then slowly pour in the milk, whisking continuously until everything is combined. It’s best to bring your eggs to room temperature for this recipe, in the spirit of keeping the batter at or above room temperature, and to make sure that the eggs don’t scramble when you add the milk.

Slowly whisk the wet ingredients into the flour, mixing constantly. You’ll have a very smooth and loose batter. My recommendation is to use a batter bowl with a pour spout, so that you can easily and evenly pour the batter into the popover tin.

Remove the popover tin from the oven and grease it with butter or nonstick spray. Fill each of the cups with batter until they are almost full, then stop with about two tablespoons of shredded cheese. A mild cheddar is perfect here, as is gruyere or any style alpine cheese. Both the cheese and thyme will dress up these popovers and give them a deep, savory quality that’s rich and herbaceous.

(At the last minute, I decided that freshly cracked black pepper would be a good addition, but that’s entirely optional.)

Bake the popovers in the oven for about 40 minutes at 350°, doing your best to not open the oven door while they’re baking, or they may begin to deflate. They’ll rise in the oven and be a bit top-heavy from the cheese.

A mild cheddar is perfect here, as is gruyere or any style alpine cheese. Both the cheese and thyme will dress up these popovers and give them a deep, savory quality that’s rich and herbaceous.

Remove them from the pan as soon as they’re done, and they’ll begin to deflate as they loose steam. Serve them warm, right out of the oven.

Make ahead: You can make popovers a few days ahead, and warm them on a baking sheet in the oven at 350° for five to ten minutes. You can also make the batter ahead and let it sit in the refrigerator. Set it out on the counter about 45 minutes before you’re ready to bake, so that the batter comes to room temperature, and remember to warm your popover tin in the oven as it preheats.

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Popovers with Cheddar and thyme

Season: Any

Makes: Six popovers

ingredients

2 cups of whole milk

1 tsp salt

2 tbsp fresh thyme

4 eggs

2 cups (240g) all-purpose flour

1½ cups grated mild cheddar cheese

Cracked black pepper, optional

PREPARATION

Place the popover pan on the middle rack of the oven while you preheat the oven to 350°.

Add the milk, salt and the thyme to a small saucepan on the stove, and gently warm over low heat until it’s warm but not simmering. You should be able to touch it without discomfort. Let the thyme steep in the warm milk for about 10 minutes.

Whisk the eggs until they are light and frothy. Slowly whisk the warm milk into the eggs, then mix it into the flour. Keep the batter at room temperature.

Remove the popover pan from the oven and use butter or non-stick spray to grease the cups. Fill each of the cups about three-quarters full with batter, and top with about two tablespoons of grated cheese. Optionally, crack fresh black pepper over the top.

Bake the popovers in the oven for 40 minutes. Remove them from the pan as soon as they’re cooked to cool. They will deflate as they loose steam.

To make ahead, refrigerate until needed, then place the popovers on a cookie sheet and warm in the oven at 350 for five to ten minutes. Or, make the batter up to two days ahead and allow it to come to room temperature before baking.

Recipe notes: Unless otherwise indicated, all recipes are developed with Kerrygold salted butter and Diamond Kosher salt. If you prefer to use unsalted butter, adjust the seasoning to your taste. If you use table salt, decrease recommended quantities of salt by around half.